I've decided to embark on a 30 day challenge which I hope will develop into a lifelong habit. My inspiration to begin this challenge stems from a previous post I wrote where I shared the amazing benefits of scalp massages using eucalyptus oil. In the study, women who massaged their scalp regulary with a solution of eucalyptus oil daily experienced a doubling in the amounts natural ceramide levels occuring in their new growth.

There's a lot riding on this for me. Because of my history of shedding and massive dandruff, I have to make sure this becomes a lifelong habit. It also seems that many of you have also been inspired to make a positive impact on your scalp health as well. After my post on the $2.00 scalp solution, I received lots of emails and notes asking about which carrier oils to use creating your essential oils mix. The real answer is that you can pretty much use any carrier oil you wish. But if you're like me and you always want to take whatever you do to the next level, then you gonna wanna hear what I say next......

Like I mentioned before, you can pretty much any natural oil to dilute your essentail oil but why not go for oils that truly benefit scalp? Imagine how much more impact you can have on your scalp if you combine eucalyptus' ceramide producing power with plant oils that are specifically beneficial to the scalp. With that said, let's run down the list of some of the most scalp friendly carrier oil options to compliment your daily scalp massage routine.

Coconut oil-"The healer"

For those of us who are looking to create a healthier scalp while incorporating essentail oils into your daily practice, coconut oil is for you. Not only is this oil light and penetrating. It also boasts of some powerful anti bacterial and anti fungal properties. To those of us with dandruff, this is a big deal. One of the contributors to dandruff is the presence of a fungus living on the scalp. By using some coconut oil in your carrier oil/essential oil mix, you are not only creating healthier hair from increased circulation, you may actually be treating your dandruff with a fungus fighting agent. I have sebhorric dermatitis which sometimes manifests itself as severe flaking and peeling along the hairline. One way I treat this symptom is with a dap of apple cider vinegar on a cotton ball. Another really effective method for me is to rub some coconut oil directly on the affected area. Coconut oil, above any other carrier oil I've used, really makes a difference with my scalp.

Castor oil-"The hair thickener"

One of the greatest benefits to regular scalp massages is thicker, more luscious hair based on the increased blood flow to the follicles. If you want to take thicker, fuller hair to the next level, you need castor oil on your side. While getting my eyebrows threaded, I was given the recommendation to apply castor oil on my eyebrows to help fill in sparse areas. When I searched online for how to grow fuller, longer lashes, my answer came in the form of castor oil. Regular massage with castor oil and eucalyptus together can give you some major growth benefits. Especially for those of you who want to thicken hairlines. If growth and thickness is what you're looking for, then consider picking up some castor oil.

Jojoba oil -"The nourisher"

Ah yes, good ol' jojoba oil. This oils is the most perfect compliment to your essential oils because of it's composition which is most like the natural, healthy oils our scalp produces. If you are looking for a light compliment to your eucalyptus oil, jojoba is a great choice. It acts as a natural, non-greasy scalp moisturizer. Jojoba oil is also said to help dissolve sebum that blocks our pores. By loosening the sebum blockage, we create a healthier enviroment where the scalp can breathe and new, healthier, hairs can grow.

Emu oil-"The penetrator"

Let me first start by putting it out there that emu is an animal, not a plant. So by using emu oil, you are applying an animal based product on your skin and hair. Before you get grossed out and write emu oil off, let me tell you why this oil is a serious contender as one of the healthiest all scalp oils. What makes this oil unique and absolutely incredible is its ability to deeply penetrate the skin. Not only does the emu oil penetrate the skin but it takes whatever ingredient you're mixing with emu into the skin with it. I've read online where someone stated they mixed emu oil with msm (at their medical practice) to help the msm penetrate for a more effective pain treatment. This could mean is that the essentail oil used with emu on the scalp can be carried down as far as 7 layers deep. In the increased ceramide study, the eucalyptus oil only really made an impact on the the hair growing in from the scalp, not the length of the shaft. This leads me to believe the real impact of eucalyptus occurs during the formation process. Can you imagine how much more potent the eucalyptus oil becomes when it's penetrated down even further? Oh and one more thing, in an independent study, emu oil was found to stimulate the growth phase of the hair follicle in lab animals. Growth stimulation, and deeper penetration. Does it get any better than this?

So have fun with experimenting with one or all of these oils. And remember, you only need a small amount of essential oil to make your mix powerful.

I'm always super excited whenever I learn something new in the world of healthy hair. Right now I'm just smitten about results of a study conducted by the University of Technology in Thailand in 2005. This study was on the effects of eucalyptus extract on the properties of the hair and scalp.

In the study, a lotion solution containing 3% eucalyptus extract was used twice a day, on the scalp, of test subjects, for several months. This was done to test the effects of consistent use of eucalyptus extract both on the hair and scalp. The study concluded that, with 3 months of consistent use, the amount of ceramide in the scalp increased. The skin on the scalp of the test subjects also improved form the use of the lotion. This was observed by increased moisture retention levels on the scalp.

But here's where the good stuff comes! By applying the eucalyptus lotion on the scalp consistently, the test subjects experienced noticeably healthier hair. The scientists measured this by first having beauticians analyze the subjects for visible signs of health such as gloss, luster, bounce, etc. Almost all of the women in the study were observed to have visibly healthier looking hair.

The hair was then measured for elasticity. After measuring elasticity levels, they determined that with consistent use of eucalyptus, elasticity and luster improved. Here's the kicker, the same amazing results did not occur when the lotion was applied to the length of the hair . Their theory is that since noticeable changes didn't occur when the solution was used on the hair, the change must be taking place in the composition of the hair (i.e when the hair is being formed). So they measured the new growth of the study participants to find that the ceramide levels in the hair increased by 120%. Lemme repeat this one more time.....after 3 months of use, the test subjects increased ceramide levels by 120%! The article concluded that "the eucalyptus extract drastically affected the hair fiber properties, improving bending elasticity and luster by a change in the hair metabolism." Hence, the "improvements in the hair properties by the eucalyptus extract were the results of some change in the hair formation process." So essentially, by adding eucalyptus extract to the scalp, you are literally impacting how healthy your hair grows in. How exciting is that?!

Last year was when I first discovered ceramides. For those of us who aren't familiar with ceramides allow me to help shed some light. Ceramides pretty much act like the "sealer" that helps keep the cuticle layer in tact. The cuticle layer is what protects our hair from potential damage. I can almost guarantee you that if you were to look at various strands damaged hair under a microscope, one thing they'd all have in common is the degradation of the cuticle. The cuticle layer protects and the cuticle layer helps preserve moisture. Without it, our hair is vulnerable.

So let's wrap this up by stating the obvious. First off, ceramides are essential and, secondly, we negatively impact ceramide levels if/when we use relaxers. I have this (unproven) theory that if we start off with the healthiest hair imaginable prior to relaxing, then give our hair a bit of an advantage to preserving the health once the process is completed. The test subjects in the study were Japanese so their natural hair already contained adequate amounts ceramides. With that said, they were still able to take it to the next level by doubling their natural ceramide amounts. My guess is that hair with twice as much ceramide protection may fare better during the touch-up process.

What does this all mean for you? I say, go quickly out into the world and pick up some eucalyptus oil--stat! Please note that the test subjects used a lotion with only 3% solution to be effective so I don't want you guys using this stuff straight on so you can avoid any possible scalp irritation. Learning about these results further supports my method of using $2.00 spray bottles for applying essential solution to the scalp. Those of you who are consistent scalp massagers, adding a little eucalyptus to your carrier oil kicks it up a notch!

Now if you'll excuse me, I'm off to mist my scalp with some eucalyptus.

Check out the details of the full study here.

So as a follow up to my last post where I talked about the reprecussions of humidity to the hair, I thought I'd brainstorm some possible solutions to this pesky situation. Like I mentioned before, most (if not all) online suggestions directed me to find silicone containing products to tame frizz. While I do believe that silicones will provide a barrier on the strand that helps the moisture in the air from penetrating, I also can see a dark side to this option.

As women with textured hair, one of the greatest battles we face is that of dryness. We can all agree that air can be a huge culprit in the dryness factor of our hair. If the air is too dry, it sucks the moisture out of our strands leaving it dry and brittle. If the air is too moist, it over penetrates our hair creating an environment of dry and brittleness as the water molecules in our oversaturated hair strands begin to evaporate. As I shared in my last post, the oversaturated strand expands excessively to the point where the cuticle layer is lifted. This is really undesirable because any type of friction can lead to cracks on the hair follicle, spit ends, and breakage. So while I believe silicone can be useful in helping to create a barrier against the humidity, I also think there’s an undesirable side effect to blocking all moisture from entering the strand. For one, the layer of “protection” can turn into buildup if day after day; you are constantly applying silicone products to you hair. This may be a non-issue if you maintain a regular cleansing schedule and can clarify effectively on wash days. But let’s talk about some other options shall we?

For most of last year, I went without an umbrella. I had one previously but decided not to replace it right away once it went missing. Anyway, because of this, I found myself making mad dashes to my car on occasions when I was caught in the rain. Soon the mad dashes turned into calm walks to my vehicle once I realized that getting my hair wet in the rain wasn’t such a bad thing. Why? Because pretty much every time my hair received the moisture from the moderate rain, it felt softer and more moisturized for the rest of the day. For this reason, I’m not too adverse to the moisture in the air, I just think that we have to control it so we can receive the good from it and minimize the undesirable effects.

Rule # 1: You're in control
Whenever I find myself in an environment with lots of moisture in the air, my very first instinct is to reach for my satin or silk scarf. This, to me, provides a very temporary barrier against extreme humid conditions in the air. I’m sure a little moisture will likely penetrate the hair under the scarf but not nearly at the same levels as when my hair is exposed. Having a scarf on hand is much easier now that I’ve created my healthy hair on the go kit. Whenever the need strikes me, I grab the scarf and I’m good. The scarf also keeps the hair secured against the head which helps provide structure for the hair to dry naturally without a negative effect. Remember how I said earlier in the post that the air could be both good and bad. It could deposit moisture into the strands (good) then turn right around and create a vulnerable environment for the hair to become rough if the cuticle layer becomes raised (bad). If you allow a controlled amount of moisture to come in contact with your hair, and then tie down with a silk scarf, you allow your hair to experience the good and reduce impact of the drying after effects.

Another action I made sure I took whenever my hair began to get damp was to seal the hair right away with my nourishing oil blend. Since I always have a little bit on me at all times, I’d just simply seal the natural moisture in, tie down with a scarf and allow the combination to work its magic. In fact, I think it was this technique that afforded me the opportunity of going without purchasing a moisturizer for so long. I remember using a technique last summer (when the humidity was the highest) where I would cover my head with a clear plastic cap for 5 minutes or so to help generate moisture. Once my hair became somewhat damp, I would remove the cap, seal with Gleau Nourishing oil, and then smooth the hair with a silk scarf. That method worked pretty well for me. The moral of the story if you want to avoid dry frizzies and brittleness, never let damp hair dry unsecured….ever.

Remember learning about the terms hydrophilic and hydrophobic in 6th grad escience class? If not, let me refresh your memory. Hydrophilic means “water loving” while hydrophobic, on the other hand, translates to something that doesn’t love water. As a general rule, if you want to minimize the effects of extreme humidity, try laying off the heavy humectants. Humectants usually draw moisture from the air and attract to the hair. This is a great thing in the winter but when the air is already laden with moisture you may be promoting frizz. So for example, when I use my steam setter, I generally don’t have to use moisturizer because the steam roller will be transferring the water particles directly to the strands. If I apply extra moisturizer, the hair remains too saturated and the curl doesn’t hold or it comes out our frizzy and puffy. On the other hand, if I just use a little oil to seal, I experience different results. If your hair is already drawing a ton of moisture from the air, you should think about whether your regimen requires less hydrophilic products (humectants) and more hydrophobic products such as natural oils. The cool thing about natural oils is that even though oil & water generally don’t mix, they compliment each other perfectly when it comes to your hair regimen. Do oils provide the same layer of protection against moisture as silicone containing products? My guess is no. But I actually appreciate the fact that oils will allow for some moisture penetration while still helping keep frizz at bay. After all, moisture isn’t entirely a bad thing.

When it comes to dealing with your hair in a high humidity environment, low manipulation is critical. In the study I mentioned in my first post, there were images of the hair samples used during the experimentation. All of the hair samples had one thing in common, they we allowed to dry loose and unrestricted. This is a recipe for disaster for textured hair. If you read this blog on a regular basis, you know that I’m not one for protective styling. It’s just not my thing. Now with that said, I still know better than to walk out of the house with my hair loose when the humidity is in full effect. If a silk scarf isn’t handy, I’ll put my hair in a single braid, a bun, or put my hair in an upsweep. The only way I take my hair down is when I’m inside in an environment where I know my hair will be safe. Again, sometimes I allow some absorption of the moisture, then apply some light oil, tie down for further penetration then remove the scarf when I arrive at my intended destination. Sometimes just a few minutes under a silk scarf is enough to make a difference.

Rule # 2: Seal the deal
For some reason, when the weather warms I suddenly have the urge to break out my cute summer dresses while sporting braid out styles. Within a few short hours my once defined waves turn into a puffy mess. While I appreciate the thickness I experience as my hair succumbs to the humidity, I hate the fact that my hair looses definition as the hydrogen bonds are broken. I think back to the days when I frequented the Dominican salons. All that blow drying really helped seal my cuticles which helped preserve my style. In fact, one visit to the salon would equal bone straight hair for up to two weeks no matter how humid it was outside. From this experience, I conclude that using heat to seal the cuticles is another option. I’m not talking about the indirect heat from sitting under the dryer while roller setting, I’m referring to the direct heat of a flat iron or blow dryer. Like silicone, excessive use of either of these techniques tend to hinder your hair’s moisture levels in the long run so make sure you work smart when ever using direct heat. This means using quality heating tools that are less harmful to the hair. Just make sure you get enough moisture in the hair from your deep conditioning process before you seal. Whenever you decided to use direct heat, you’ve got to take extra precautions to make sure your hair isn’t harmed by the whole experience. Try to get as much moisture into the strand as possible beforehand. You also really got to make sure you step up and use quality heat protecting products. Lately I've been hearing a lot of good things about Nioxin Bliss Thermal Protector. I just picked up a bottle last week. High on the list of ingredients is wheat protein and amino acids (it also contains one silicone ingredient) I really hope it lives up to my expectations.

Which leads me into another point, one important note I also remember from my reading of the study was how porous hair absorbed more water molecules than virgin hair. Again, let’s assume for the sake of argument that those of us who relax have porous hair. So to me this means I have to make sure I’m giving my hair exactly what it needs in terms of protein and ceramides. Protein will strengthen the strand and fill in the cracks, ceramides will help seal the cuticle layer. Together they work together to create hair that’s less porous and therefore less likely to attract all that excess moisture. Think back to the "healthy hair experiment" that requires you to place a strand of hair in a bowl of water. Damaged, porous hair absorbs the water and soon begins to sink to the bottom of the bowl. Healthy hair floated on the water's surface as it was able to protect itself from absorbing all of the water around it. If you haven't done that test in a while, maybe now is a good time to revisit.

And of course after every wash I want to make sure I use a little apple cider vinegar during my final rinse to lower the pH level of the hair and scalp. And let’s not forget that during the summer months is the perfect time to make sure we use cold water when rinsing out product. Both of these actions help create that sealed cuticle layer which is so critical in fighting humidity. O.k so I went a little longer in this post than I usually do. That’s because I wanted to offer up some options on how we can leverage all the “free moisture” that’s available to us in the form of humidity while still keeping frizz at bay. I understand there will be times that our hair has to look perfect and using a silicone product is the answer, but I also think there are other (healthier) options available to us as well.

source

I was in the middle of conducting some research online on the specific ways to improve elasticity in the hair when I come across this golden nugget of wisdom written by our good friend Dr. Ali Syed who authors a very imformative blog called In the Lab with Dr. Ali Syed.

The 10 page document I stumbled upon is titled: Hair Damage, it's causes, prevention and cures. I especially like the chart at the end of the document which describes the various hair damage symptoms and how to address them. The minute I saw this document, I just new I had to share. Hope you like.....



Image by: Dr_Alan_Bauman

by Jsome1

You all may have remembered my review of a wonderful product called Zen Detox. The creator of that product, Anthony Morrocco, has practiced holistic hair care for over 40 years. He's worked with celebrities and has dedicated his time to helping people like you and me to achieve beautiful hair.

One of his mantras, which has recently caught my attention, is his belief in using a lunar chart, that documents the phases of the moon, as a guide for hair growth. More specifically, hair cutting and growth.

This idea of cutting the hair according to the phases of the moon is not a new one. I found countless of articles online by numerous people claiming to have utilized this chart in their quest for fabulous hair. Here's a quote I found online on a popular hair board.

"my sis trims her hair with the new moon, it's supposed to help your hair grow faster. Another woman I know that used this method when she was younger said there was a substantial difference between when she did follow it and when she did not."


When I first heard of this method, I immediately dismissed it as hogwash. How in the world could anyone affect the growth of their hair by relying on the moon for advice on styling options? But then I thought about it, the moon has the power to impact the tide of the mighty ocean, could it be possible that it could help a sista out with her hair growth?

That's when I found this article by Marie Ann Lionel on buzzel.com.
Mary goes out of her way to detail the basic laws of physics and how much the moon truly affects our planet. She even states that doctors often will see an increase of patients suffering from an epileptic seizures or bleeding ulcers during the time of the full moon. It all has to do with the moon's gravitational pull. The theory is that when the moon's gravitational pulls are lower, the hair grows slower. A higher gravitational pull means a greater likelihood of faster growth.

Whether you believe in moon cycles and hair cutting or not, I will certainly say that it's interesting to say the least. I haven't tried so I won't knock it. This new way of hair cutting, has certainly peaked my interest and I'm willing to give it a shot!

So I located a copy of a lunar schedule to see when the next possible opportunity is. The schedule on Anthony Morrocco's site was the most complete one I've been able to locate. He spells it out in black and white what the optimal days for haircutting are this year. You best believe that I'll be calendaring these dates so I get a timely reminder.

For those of you who are afraid that I've officially fallen off the wagon truck and suffered a nasty bump on my head, let me salvage my reputation by saying this.....

We all need to trim (or dust) our hair periodically for optimal health. I, for one, can say with certainty that I've experienced the most growth (and retained the most length)after I've given myself a well deserved trim. If there's even the slightest chance that I can get even more benefit from trimming if I schedule it for certain times of the year....them I'm in!

Those of who who've been contemplating a trim, check out this calendar first, try this method and see happens. Hopefully, your results will be so fab, you'll howl with excitement.

There's nothing more satisfying than realizing first hand, the almost incredible claims of a hair product. When I first posted on the Japanese originated product called Asience, I wasn't sure what the outcome would be on chemically treated African-American hair. I admit that my first stint with Asience was not as magical as I would have liked. Today, however, I'm signing a different tune 'cause my hair is the healthiest that it's looked and felt in a long while.

So what was different this time?

First off, since my hair was still feeling a just a teeny bit stiff from from my last wash, I decided to really make this wash all about moisture. I pre-pooed with Nioxin Moisture and Strength conditioner mixed with a little NTM Deep Recovery Hair Mask. After 20 minutes or so I jumped in the shower and washed with my Hair One Cleansing Conditioner. Once that was over I stepped out and prepared for my deep conditioning step. That's when I broke out the Asience conditioner and mixed with Keracare Humecto Conditioner. The two conditioners blended together felt wonderful on the hair. Still remaining cautious of protien overload, I opted to only leave the conditioner blend in for about 15 minutes. No heat.

Last but not least, for my rollerset, I made sure to solidify this moisture routine by using Salon Care's Honey and Almond conditioner as a leave-in along with some Aloe Vera juice in leiu of using plain water. 

Rollersetting was a breeze.

 The minute I started removing the rollers I knew that I done good. The hair had so much health to it. My curls fell easily to my shoulders as I removed the rollers. Next I rubbed in a little bit of my oil blend and the rest is history.

If you remember my original post on Asience, you may recall the fact that the product claims to continue to improve the look and feel of the hair with consistent use. Call me gullible but I actually believe it. Sure I had to learn the best way to use to product but I feel completely comfortable saying that it was certainly worth the trial and error required to get these results.

This product is absolutely going to be a staple for me.  My hair has seen so much benefit from it.  The strands are silkier, stronger, shinier, and..........more supple!   I'm absolutely ecstatic that Asience has come into my life.

For those of you who are information junkies like me, here is some data I found from a  press release about this product.

Asian Beauty Essence

ASIENCE is formulated with natural and nourishing ingredients to specifically treat Asian hair. It contains Pearl and Soybean Essence that work to repair damaged and brittle hair, Korean Ginseng and Camellia Oil keeps hair hydrated and nourished, while the essence of Eucalyptus protects hair from harmful effects.


• Pearl & Soybean: Nourishing protein to repair and strengthen• Korean ginseng & Camellia oil: Excellent emollients to moisturize and control frizz• Eucalyptus extract: Soothing extract to protect and seal in cuticles

Japan’s Advanced Hair Beautifying Technology

Hair damage occurs on the surface and inside. After several research studies from KAO, they came up with 2 technologies.

• For repairing inside: HBT
• For repairing outside: 18-MEA

HBT or Hair Beautifying Technology, helps regain hair’s original protein which restores the beauty and suppleness of Asian hair. This unique technology penetrates deep into the root to improve the health of hair.



18-MEA is a natural protective coat that wraps around the hair’s surface. It is easily depleted by constant exposure to chemical treatments and blow-drying. Without 18-MEA, hair becomes dull, dry and rough. With this knowledge, Kao succeeded in developing a technology that makes 18-MEA adhere to the surface of the hair, forming a film that protects the cuticle and thus improving the smoothness of the damaged surface.


As a result, hair is more manageable, doesn’t tangle easily, feels more supple with texture so smooth even water beads roll off with ease.

Healthy hair with 18-MEA(water beads without losing shape)
Damaged hair without 18-MEA(water disperses)

Image by delila



The other day I picked up some more Roux Porosity Control to replenish my hair stock pile. As I purchased this product, I silently smiled to myself and thought about how thankful I was to have a product so work well for me that I actually want to repurchase (for the fourth time). When you read the product label, the ingredients will not seem all that impressive (or pronounceable). What does stick out though is the clearly stated pH level of 4.5.

You'll find few other product brands with their pH levels expressed so plainly. Why even have that information displayed? Does the pH level really make a difference?

The normal pH range of healthy hair spans from about 4.5 to 5.5. This range is slightly acidic. When we relax our hair, the pH levels rises to a highly alkaline with a pH level of around 11. I should mention here that all chemical services are alkaline. This includes coloring the hair. When your hair's pH level drops below 4.5 the cuticle layer contracts. Above 5.5 the cuticle layer opens up. A pH level of 5 is considered ideal for the hair. It's the hair's sweet spot if you will.

As you can probably figure out, we don't want the hair's pH level to fall below 4.5 or higher than 5.5. Cuticle layers that are too contracted/constricted will not allow for our daily moisturizers to properly penetrate. Open cuticle layers essentially means that your strands are vulnerable. It's like going out to battle with no means of protection. When we don't pay attention to the pH levels in our products, it can be a disaster waiting to happen.

So now we're at a place where we have to begin to think about two main focus areas when it comes to the health of the hair. The first being "does my hair need more moisture or more strength?" The second being "are the products I'm using too acidic or alkaline?"
When I first used Porosity Control, I found that it worked best when mixed in with another one of my conditioners. No matter which one it was, the impact to my hair was obvious whenever I coupled it with Roux. Looking back, I'm guessing that this was because some of the conditioners I use are more alkaline than they should be. Roux worked to bring the pH levels of my conditioners to a more desirable place where they could better impact the look and feel of my hair. I, however could not prove this theory because, unlike the straightforward nature of Porosity Control, other product manufacturers don't chose to make themselves and, where they land on the pH scale, as transparent.

Now that I'm armed with this type of information, I have no choice but to take incisive action to use this information for my hair's overall gain. The good news is that we can take this matter into our own hands. With the use of simple pH testing strips, we can identify which products help and which one's hurt us in the struggle for perfect pH balance. Even as we now speak I've already made plans to locate and purchase some litmus paper and get to testin! I think this experiment will be both fun, educational, and beneficial to the hair. I am extremely excited about this topic and the possibilities. I'm all gitty about the thought of creating a conditioner mix that falls at a pH level of 5.0! More posts on this topic to come as I learn and experiment.

Until next time!